Sunday 5 March 2017

Celia Granata: Mama Tried: Traditional Italian Cooking for the screwed, crude, vegan and tattooed (Microcosm)

Traditional Italian food is much, much more vegan-friendly than mainstream cookery lets on – it holds simplicity and emphasis on fresh ingredients, and often without the focus on meat at the centre of the plate.

Mama Tried draws mostly from fresh ingredients, and leaves the reader to go and find local, seasonal fruit and veg. Cecilia rarely reaches for substitutes for animal products; with the exception of seitan stew with porcini mushroom, vegan goat’s cheese (using unsweetened vegan yoghurt), or tofu skewers. Throughout, Mama Tried strives for the simple and achievable – sweet and sour onions, “aphrodisiac” asparagus or the excellent tomato and olive bread rolls.

Cecilia badges herself as a vegan tattoo artist, who grew up cooking with her family in Italy.

With a librarian-like love of organising, categorising and menu-building, Cecilia presents exquisite ideas for dinner – try potato croquettes, Sicilian vegetable stew and fresh fruit tart, as well as exceptional stand-alones such as frittatas or chilli pepper truffles. Now based in California, Cecilia has oodles of ideas for burgers, which are countered by heaps of summer and winter salads. Sometimes Mama Tried verges on the bizarre (strawberry risotto anyone?), but often the sublime (tiramisu or “Not Nutella”!).

With a clear, fun, design from a tattoo artist’s hands Mama Tried sits equally on the kitchen bookshelf or coffee table. If I've a criticism of this excellent book, it's the absence of photography – a I'm sure food fans would much prefer to see the results of her labours.

 (available through www.turnaround-uk.com) 

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